There are two main groups of agents that can be used as anti-aging cream ingredients; Antioxidants and cell regulators. Antioxidants such as vitamins, polyphenols and flavonoids reduce collagen degradation by reducing the FR concentration in tissues. Cell regulators such as retinols, peptides and growth factors (GF) have direct effects on collagen metabolism and affect collagen production.
Vitamins C, B3 and E are the most important antioxidants due to their ability to penetrate the skin due to their small molecular weight. At concentrations between 5 and 15%, water-soluble, heat-labile local L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) has been proven to have an anti-aging effect on the skin by inducing the production of collagen 1 and 3, as well as important enzymes for collagen production and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) 1 (collagenase 1) inhibitors. Clinical studies have shown that the combination of vitamins C and E provides higher antioxidative protection than either vitamin C or E alone. Niacinamide (vitamin B3) regulates cell metabolism and regeneration. In some studies, improvements in skin elasticity, erythema and pigmentation were observed after 3 months of topical treatment. Vitamin E (α-tocopherol), used as a component of skin products, has anti-inflammatory properties. In concentrations between 2 and 20%, inflammatory and antiproliferative effects have been demonstrated. It acts by smoothing the skin and increasing the ability of the stratum corneum to retain moisture, accelerating epithelization and contributing to the protection of the skin from light. Its effects are not as strong as those of vitamins C and B3. Cell regulators such as vitamin A derivatives, polyketides and botanicals act directly on collagen metabolism and stimulate the production of collagen and elastic fibers. Vitamin A (retinol) and its derivatives (retinaldehyde and tretinoin) are also a group of agents with antioxidant effects. They can induce collagen biosynthesis and reduce the expression of MMP 1 (collagenase 1). Retinol is currently the most commonly used anti-aging compound and causes less skin irritation compared to tretinoin. Retinol has been shown to have positive effects not only on the skin but also on the skin itself. It has a strong positive effect on intrinsic skin aging and collagen metabolism. Tretinoin, a first-generation non-aromatic retinoid, is approved for use in the United States as an anti-aging treatment at a concentration of 0.05%. It has been shown to reduce signs of UV-induced premature skin aging, such as wrinkles, loss of skin elasticity, and pigmentation. Polypeptides or oligopeptides are composed of amino acids and can mimic a peptide sequence of molecules such as collagen or elastin. Through topical application, polypeptides have the ability to stimulate collagen synthesis and activate dermal metabolism.